Cow And Chicken Manure

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Composted Cow Manure Works As An Excellent Fertilizer

Talk about some bulky additions to your compost pile and you have to consider farmyard manure. That includes cow manure, horse manure or chicken manure but not human or dog excreta; the latter two often have germs of diseases and your good effort might just backfire.

The former three stands as the safest and the best of all and a ton of it shall supply 9 to 15 lbs. of nitrogen besides almost equal amounts of phosphates, potassium compounds and more than double that amount of lime carbonate.

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Manure by itself is complete in its composition to qualify as a rich organic fertilizer that supplies the food to the plants and has some amount mechanical advantages over artificially prepared fertilizers.

Firstly, they are bulky in nature and occupy enough volume to displace large, compact masses of soil to let in fresh air and water; when decomposed, it gives out carbonic acid and reacts with other minerals to turn them soluble and thus brings in hordes of bacteria, which again generate other nutrients to enrich the soil. Chemical manures cannot initiate such processes themselves and are not always as safe as cow/horse/chicken manure.

Cow And Chicken Manure Is Required In Necessary Amounts

Now, it's not that you go on dumping cow manure or chicken manure as much as you like; farmyard manure is required in necessary amounts to keep soil fertile. It is the soil's nature that determines the quantity of farmhouse manure to be added; for example, normal loamy soil requires anything between 12 and 16 tons per acre whereas for heavily loamy or clayey soil, the count may go up to 24. For light soil (with sand or gravels), nothing less than 30 tons would do but often 50 tons or more are required to obtain good results.

Let's see now what else are given out by farmhouse manures. Manures alone can provide 80% of the nitrogen a plant requires; around 85% of the required phosphorus and 90% of the potassium and trace elements requirements, if the mix is right. However, other factors like how the manure is collected and stored and application procedures also stay greatly responsible for its effect. Because, it all adds up to the manure's decomposition and release of constituents; denatured manure is not half as good as properly preserved manure.

That's chiefly because the unstable forms of nitrogen (e.g. urea found in urine) give away under improper conditions and may depreciate the total nitrogen value of the cow or horse manure by as much as 50%. Moreover, it forms ammonium ions, which make the manure lose its moisture and help the extremely volatile ammonia lose nitrogen more. It takes around 7 days for manure to become useless. The 8 pounds of nitrogen per ton of cow manure reduces to less than 4lbs/ton in 7 days approximately. However, it is the more stable nitrogen in organic form that gets released slowly over a long span and more than 50% of it finds nest in the soil.

Spread Evenly Over The Land And Avoid To Use Fresh Un-Composted Chicken Manure

Nitrogen loss in horse/cow manure or chicken manure can be minimized if the set storing and application methods are followed. Manure collected and applied immediately lessens odors and stops ammonia loss up to a great deal. Care should be taken that it gets evenly spread over the land and doesn't concentrate heavily on singular spots. More surface area makes for a better absorption; piling them up shall saturate that area and the extra nitrogen shall be lost.

The use of fresh chicken manure can be risky, too. It happens here and then that chicken manure contains diseases and organisms that can infect the roots and plants. Therefore it's advised not to spread un-composted chicken manure, especially over areas of fruit and vegetable plants.

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Composting cow and chicken manure can result in an excellent fertilizer